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Hi all - hoping to see what the collective wisdom has to offer on this one...

I was cutting the notches in the rim for the back braces. One of them went a bit deep, to the extent it doesn't even look like the binding will cover it completely. Should i epoxy in a small piece of the side wood and scrape flush? Dangit, it was going so well

Open to suggestions, thanks!!!

Adam

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"Everyone wants to BE something, but nobody wants to BECOME something" - William Cumpiano

Use wider binding.

the
Padma

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Yep!!!! I've done that one myself. I just made a little piece from the side material that I could use to fill the hole. I matched the grain as best I could. Then I glued it in with LMI white (it drys clear). You couldn't see it once I scraped it smooth and put the binding on.

Then again if it is close you can put in wider binding with a purling line like Padma suggested. Something like this:



Now I just inlet the braces through the lining, stoping at the sides.

Good Luck.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Don't use wider binding. Fill in with side wood.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Tried to post this picture as an example. Maybe it will work this time...

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

OK, so the consensus seems to lean towards filling in with a piece of side wood. Should I do this after I have the top glued on and edges flush, but before routing for the binding? Or after the binding is installed so I know exactly how big a piece to put in?

And, just use white glue, not epoxy?

thanks all for the rescue!! I felt like an idiot...

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"Everyone wants to BE something, but nobody wants to BECOME something" - William Cumpiano

I use a little dremel with the depth set at about .060 and thin my brace ends accordingly. You really have to control the inlet to a close tolerance to avoid the problem entirely. Good luck patching it. I've never done the linings only thing, it's just really easy to rout a slot with the dremel and no worries of going too deep that the binding doesn't cover. The brace ends get routed back flush when routing for the binding itself.

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http://www.dickeyguitars.com

I suppose epoxy would work ok but it has its draw backs. One is that it takes a long time to dry so you'll have to clamp the piece in (tape?). The other is that you may have more of a glue line with it, maybe not, depending on the color of the sides.

I like LMI white because you can hold the piece in by hand for about 30 seconds and it will grab it pretty well. If you do it with clean hands and hold it pretty tight it makes for a fairly unnoticeable glue line. HHG is probably the best but I've never taken the plunge.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust